I’ve been on a four year journey to officially crown fall as my favorite season - and a recent long weekend trip to New Hampshire’s White Mountains has sealed the deal.
Suddenly I understand the leaf-peeping phenomenon after spending 4 days enveloped in nature’s colorful chlorophyll-ceasing scenery.
I never quite understood the pilgrimage to New England town’s like Stowe in Vermont, Bar Harbor in Maine and Providence in Rhode Island. It sounded like a lot of traffic just to see some dying leaves.
But when cooped up in coronavirus lockdown, getaways were limited to places reachable by car. Plus, I’m always a fan of being surrounded by trees instead of people.
My friend and I had seen the endless Instagram posts from Acadia National Park and while I certainly want to check out one of the northeast’s only national parks at some point, I also wanted to go somewhere a little under the radar.
I booked an Airbnb in Bartlett, New Hampshire and got to planning the perfect long weekend.
GETTING THERE
We opted to take a ferry across to Connecticut - it cost us some money, but afforded us nap time and avoided driving through NYC traffic.
Plus - we got this gorgeous sunrise on the water to start our first day of vacation!
Keep in mind that you’ll definitely need your car or a rental car if you’re planning a trip to New Hampshire for the fall foliage.
WHERE TO STAY IN NEW HAMPSHIRE’S WHITE MOUNTAINS
We stayed in a condo at Attitash Mountain Village - which was centrally located to all of the different areas we wanted to explore.
It was so nice being somewhere with so many amenities on-site. Some things, like the sauna and spa, were shut down because of COVID-19. But we were able to enjoy the outdoor hot tub, the fitness center, and the on-site nature trail.
It helps to know which hikes you’re looking to do - but for the most part you can’t go wrong staying in any of the towns surrounding the White Mountain National Forest - there’s Conway, Bartlett, Lincoln and Franconia to name a few.
HOW TO STRUCTURE YOUR TRIP TO NEW HAMPSHIRE’S WHITE MOUNTAINS
There are a few main regions that I’d recommend exploring during your trip to New Hampshire. It helps to focus on one each day to cut down on the time you’re driving or stuck in your car. That being said - there are a ton of scenic drives in New Hampshire, so your time in the driver’s or passenger’s seat is sure to fly by in a blur of yellow, orange and red.
THE KANCAMAGUS SCENIC BYWAY
FRANCONIA NOTCH STATE PARK
LAKES REGION OF CENTRAL NEW HAMPSHIRE
CRAWFORD NOTCH STATE PARK
MOUNT WASHINGTON
THINGS TO DO AND SEE IN NEW HAMPSHIRE’S WHITE MOUNTAINS
DRIVE THE KANCAMAGUS SCENIC BYWAY “THE KANC”
This is a 35 mile drive that will bring you East to West from Lincoln, New Hampshire to Conway, New Hampshire. Along the route you’ll find multiple scenic overlooks, short hikes, and mile after mile of foliage following the Saco River as it winds it way through the White Mountain National Forest.
This scenic byway can see up to 4,000 cars at the height of foliage season, but when we visited we never felt like there was any traffic along the route.
I’d recommend picking up a map that lists the stops along the way - but Google Maps will have most of them. That being said - cell phone service is limited along the Kanc.
Remember to pay the $5 per vehicle parking fee at trailheads along the way!
ALBANY COVERED BRIDGE
After checking out the covered bridge, you can enjoy the Boulder Loop Trail - a 2.8 mile hike.
CHAMPNEY FALLS TRAILHEAD
If you’re up for a 3.1 mile hike, you can reach the Champney Falls.
MOUNT CHOCORUA
We opted for a longer, 7.4 mile hike, and took the Champney Brook Trail up to the peak of Mount Chocorua. It was one of the coolest hikes I’ve ever done, bringing us up 2,244 feet of elevation to the summit of Mount Chocorua at 3,490’ with stunning 360-degree views of Mount Washington’s white-capped peak.
The hike included multiple sketchy river crossings that had my heart in my throat - and steep, slippery rocks the entire way up. But we felt so accomplished when we broke the tree-line and saw all of the White Mountain National Forest spread below us.
There are multiple hiking trails that lead to the summit (Piper Trail, Liberty Trail, Champney Book Trail, etc.)
SABBADAY FALLS
Don’t miss this stop! For just a quick .5 mile walk - you’ll be greeted by some stunning waterfalls!
2. EXPLORE FRANCONIA NOTCH STATE PARK
ECHO LAKE
On our drive from Bartlett to Franconia Notch State Park, we encountered the first snowfall of the season! And by the time we parked at Echo Lake, it was a winter wonderland.
Across the street from the Echo Lake parking lot there is access to the Artists Bluff Trail - a quick 1.5 mile hike which will give you stunning views of the lake and valley.
FLUME GORGE
If you’re planning a trip to New Hampshire there’s one place I insist that you visit! Flume Gorge was a must-see in the Live Free or Die state - it felt like we had been transported to the Amazon rainforest, or another time period entirely as we explored this gorge carved out of the 200 million year old Conway granite. The granite rises 90 feet up and at its narrowest the gorge walls are just 12 feet apart.
It was so worth the $16 entry free to walk through this park (which took about 1.5 hours). You’ll not only get to experience the gorge, but the Flume Covered Bridge, Avalanche Falls, Glacial Builders and more.
My favorite part was that this incredible natural wonder was discovered by a 93-year old WOMAN while she was out fishing in 1808!
Please note that Flume Gorge operates annually from 9 AM - 5 PM from May 22 - October 20.
During the coronavirus pandemic, you’ll need to reserve a time in advance and purchase a ticket online.
CANNON MOUNTAIN AERIAL TRAMWAY
Currently closed due to coronavirus restrictions, this cable-car usually shuttles passengers up to the 4,080 foot summit of Cannon Mountain for $18 (round-trip).
FRANCONIA NOTCH AREA DAY HIKES
While you’re in Franconia Notch State Park, there are a number of popular hikes of varying distances you can enjoy.
Old Bridle Path - 1.7 Miles
Mount Pemigewasset Trail (Indian Head) - 3.7 Miles
Lonesome Lake via Cascade Brook and Pemi Trail - 6.4 Miles
As a general rule, be sure to check any of your hikes on All Trails prior to starting out. It’s helpful to read reviews from hikers who have been there recently and may know more up to date trail conditions.
3. VISIT THE LAKES REGION OF NEW HAMPSHIRE
DRIVE THE LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE LOOP
New Hampshire’s largest and most beloved lakes is Lake Winnipesaukee. You can drive the 97-mile loop around the lake’s shores.
A drive around the lake wouldn’t be complete without a stop in Meredith, New Hampshire. A charming town that always gets featured on lists of the most quaint and charming towns in New Hampshire.
VISIT SQUAM LAKE
Personally, we opted to visit Squam Lake, a smaller lake just north of Winnipesaukee.
PICNIC LUNCH
We picked up lunch at Squam Lake + Marketplace, an incredibly charming and delicious deli, coffeeshop and local market in Holderness, New Hampshire.
We really appreciated their attention to coronavirus precautions - and their friendly staff led us to the perfect picnic tables behind the local post office to enjoy our sandwiches.
LOCAL HIKE
After fueling up, we headed a few towns over to Moultonborough, New Hampshire to start the Red Hill Fire Tower Hike.
We were lucky to grab a parking spot - since it’s definitely limited at the trailhead.
The views from the fire tower were beautiful and we were blessed with some seriously warm weather. The foliage on this hike was perhaps the most amazing we saw the entire trip.
At the summit, we saw a marker for another two mile trail, and followed it to the Eagle Cliff lookout. It was steeper than expected in parts, and brought our total round trip distance to around 8 miles. Towards the end, as the sun got lower in the sky, everything seemed even more golden-hued.
4. CRAWFORD NOTCH STATE PARK
Crawford Notch is another state park within the White Mountain Forest area and was closest to where we were staying in Bartlett. Though we didn’t end up doing any of the hikes in this state park, two of the most popular are:
Mount Willard Trail - 3.2 Miles
Arethusa Falls Via Bemis Brook and Arethusa Falls Trails - 2.8 Miles
Both are fairly short, but promise spectacular views at the summits.
DIANA’S BATHS
Thought not technically part of Crawford Notch State Park, Diana’s Baths, part of the White Mountain National Forest, is in the Bartlett area.
This was a stop we decided to make last minute as we drove by, and were really glad we did! Its a series of pools and waterfalls that are very popular in the summer months for kids to splash around in. It was definitely one of the most crowded spots we visited, but for a quick 1.3 mile walk, it’s definitely worth it! (You’ll have to pay to park here, so either come with your pre-purchased White Mountain Annual pass, or with $5 cash!)
5. MOUNT WASHINGTON
Let’s address the elephant in the room - we are at item #5 of the list and I have yet to mention the Northeast’s largest mountain - Mount Washington (Agiocochook by some Native American tribes).
Mount Washington’s summit sits at 6,288 feet and not only has it earned the title of highest in the Northeastern United States, but the most dangerous. The weather at the top of Mount Washington is known for being incredibly unpredictable - the winds up there have been recorded at 231 MPH. This obviously makes hiking it inherently risky.
There are a number of ways to experience Mount Washington while you’re exploring the White Mountains.
HIKE - If you’re feeling adventurous, you can try to reach the summit on your own two feet. The most popular trail to the top is Tuckerman’s Ravine. Over the course of about 4 miles you’ll climb over 4,000 feet. Make sure you do your research before tackling this beast of a hike - it’s no joke and you’ll need to be hyper aware of the summit weather forecasts for the day you’re hiking!
DRIVE - Have you ever wanted a bumper sticker that says, “THIS CAR CLIMBED MOUNT WASHINGTON?” Then the Mount Washington Auto Road is for you! You can drive your own car up, or go on a guided tour.
TRAIN - Another option is the Cog Railway which operates to the summit from May to October. The round trip ride will take about 3 hours. In the winter months, a one hour round trip ride will take you to just under 4,000’.
I’m dying to tackle this hike one day, but driving up to the tree line was an experience in itself on our last morning in New Hampshire! We really lucked out with a clear day and some sun - though I can’t say the lack of a guardrail was my favorite feeling!
drink like a local
There are a ton of opportunities to taste local craft beer, wine and even liquor while you’re visiting the White Mountains.
Lincoln
Seven Birches Winery - We loved sitting out on their deck and enjoying a $10 sampling. For these Long Island ladies - that seemed like stealing! The best was that it was cold, and rainy and the last sample was of a hot mulled apple wine. We had to finish with a full glass!
Conway
Moat Mountain Brewing Co. - Note that their outdoor dining closes early - and they weren’t accommodating when we explained we would really be more comfortable sitting outside. We ended up leaving, which is a shame because their beer looked great!
Bartlett
White Mountain Cider Co. - While they don’t brew their own cider, they do have a great assortment of local beers, ciders and liquors. Plus, their food was absolutely phenomenal. They also have a market and make cider donuts - what a dream! They were able to seat us outside with built in overhead heaters that felt so amazing after our Mount Chocorua hike! I think a nice meal at the White Mountain Cider Co. is necessary for any New Hampshire itinerary!
PRO TIP: Order the “Moment In The Garden” made with gin produced at the nearby Tamworth Distillery!
Tamworth
Lake Winnipesaukee Area
Burnt Timber Brewing and Tavern
6. stock up like an out of stater
New Hampshire’s lack of sales tax and state-run liquor stores mean serious savings. Before you head out, be sure to stop by one of the many New Hampshire Liquor and Wine Outlets!
7. shop the new hampshire outlets!
Along the same lines, no sales tax means great savings at outlets like the North Conway’s Settlers Green Outlet Village.
We stopped by LL Bean and were in heaven with the prices! And it’s so satisfying getting rung up and not seeing a sudden jump in cost from tax.
If everything else around us hadn’t been so damn stunning - I could have done some serious shopping damage!
8. explore off the beaten path
My biggest piece of advice while visiting the White Mountains? Don’t be afraid to go off-script. While having a plan is nice, if there’s something that’s calling your name - pull the car over and go for it!
Like when we found these tractors…
WHAT TO EAT IN NEW HAMPSHIRE’S WHITE MOUNTAINS
Because we were planning this trip during the COVID-19 pandemic, we chose to eat the majority of our meals in our hotel room. We cooked breakfast and dinner and brought sandwiches to eat on our hikes during the day.
We did treat ourselves to some appetizers and drinks at White Mountain Cider Co. which was phenomenal.
A few other places we passed and liked the looks of:
I am now a full-fledged fall fanatic who will be planning leaf-peeping pilgrimages for years to come.
